Monthly Archives: September 2012
Q1. Do I need to reduce my door to suit the opening I have, how much can I take off the door?
On external doors we recommend that no more than 12mm be removed from any side, top or bottom. Sometimes door openings are a non standard size e.g. 31 1/2″ x 78″.
We would advise that you purchase an 80″ x 32″ door and reduce the height rather than the width, as there is more width to the bottom rail than the door stiles. However removing more than 1″ from either the height or width will invalidate the guarantee.
Q2. I have broken a piece of glass, can you supply a replacement piece?
These doors are of cassette construction therefore they are built around the glass and there are no loose beads. We do not have replacement glass. If the customer wants to re-glaze, they would need to router the mould off one side of the glazing aperture, remove the broken glass, put new glass in and acquire a new loose beading to re-glaze the door ( probably as cheap to buy a new door).
Q3. The label on the door states that I cannot use wax, teak oil or varnish. Why not?
When we manufacture a door it has a controlled moisture content, the above mentioned treatments will not seal the moisture content into the door, therefore allowing moisture ingress or loss to occur causing the door to either swell or shrink. Only a fully paint finish (primer, undercoat, gloss) or high performance wood stain should be used.
Q4. What is the U-Value of a specific external door?
Certified U-Values are available for the majority of Best4Doors Doorsets. These U-Values have been determined by Chiltern Dynamics, an independent UKAS accredited testing laboratory. External doors sold separately are available with indicative U-Values only. These indicative U-Values are based upon information from BRE 443 2006 Edition: Conventions for U-Value Calculations, produced by the Building Research Establishment Limited.
Q5. The glazing bars on my doors are out of line, not square, what can I do?
The vertical and horizontal glazing bars can be tapped back into position. If the customer does not want to attempt this and is not happy they need to raise a complaint with the store where they purchased the door from and we will send an inspector to look at the problem.
The glazing bars are usually out of line due to the movement in transit.
Q6. Can you tell what the fire rating is for my door?
Other than the specific fire doors sold by Best 4 Doors, none of our internal or external doors have a fire rating.
The fire doors sold by Best 4 Doors all have a 1/2 hour fire rating.
This is intriguing – the potential to heat an entire city from water that is underground. Is it really that simple and utility companies don’t want us to know or is it an unrealistic and somewhat eccentric idea? I suppose time will tell………
Summer’s over and the nights are drawing in, so that must mean it’s just about time for Halloween. Love it or hate it – it’s caught on in the UK and established itself firmly as regular feature in our calendar of festivities.
So, while it’s here we might as well enjoy it and have a bit of fun. Why not decorate your front door to be a spooky welcome ( or maybe a deterrent) for the the local children.
This video gives some good ideas.
A new front door can add a real touch of class to your home, not to mention improved security!
Nothing beats the warmth and feeling of strength and solidness of a wooden door. Wooden external doors are available in such a wide range of styles and prices, there is almost certainly one to suit your personality and your pocket!
Once you have gone to the trouble and expense of buying a new front or back door, you need to be sure it’s installed correctly. Unless you are an experienced joiner or handyman, we highly recommend getting an expert to do it for you.
However, if you want to go ahead and install your own external hardwood door, then we have the following practical advice for you.
Measure, measure and measure again!
If you are ordering a bespoke wooden door, you need to absolutely sure that you have the size right. Any inaccuracies could result in some rather expensive firewood!
- Measure the width of the frame at the top, and again in the middle, and at the bottom. Use the widest measurement for ordering your door. If the difference between the widest and narrowest part of the frame is more than 15-20mm, then you may need to consider a whole new frame. Bear in mind that you will need to trim the door where necessary to fit the narrowest part.
- Measure the height of the door frame from the floor to the bottom edge of the door frame or lintel.
- Measure the thickness of the current door, and if you cannot find an exact match then you will need to order a slightly thinner door –this should be barely noticeable once the door has been fitted. Measuring for a new frame – If you are ordering a new frame as well as a new door, then you will need to have the outside measurements of the frame, as well as the inside measurements of the frame. If ordering ready-made frames and the exact size is not available, then order the closest size smaller frame. It is easier to adjust the opening to accommodate a smaller frame than a larger one.
Installing your new door.
Make sure you have given yourself plenty of time to get the new door on – you don’t want a gaping hole in your home for too long!
Firstly, make sure you have all the tools and materials you need before you start,also allow a couple of days to coat the door or doors with at least 3 coats of Sikkens or paint, see our technical section re: application information. It might also be a good idea to have another pair of strong arms to help out, as wooden doors can be heavy and awkward to keep in place on your own.
Try to get your door a few days before you plan to install it so that the timber has time to accclimatise. It is best to lay the door flat, as leaning it on a wall may cause it to become bowed. Solid timber doors can usually be trimmed by about 20mm (3/4 inch), but obviously this is best avoided if possible.
- Place the door against the frame, and if there is any overlap, then position the door so that the overlap is evenly distributed and mark with a pencil where any trimming needs to be done. You should leave a 2-3mm gap on either side and at the top and bottom of the door.
- Starting nearest the corner, carefully plane the overlap to the marked measurements. If there are fairly large adjustments to be made, it is possible to use a saw. Be careful, as it is impossible to put bits back if you take too much off.
- You may be able to use the existing hinge recesses in the doorframe, or you may need to chisel new ones. If at all possible try to use the existing ones, as chiseling a new one can be tricky and time-consuming. If chiselling new recesses, ensure that the doors are hinged between 125-150mm (5-6 inches) from the top and 175-230mm (7-9 inches) from the bottom, with a third hinge in the centre. Brass hinges are usually best, and always ensure that they fit the flush into the recess.
- Mark the position of the hinges on the door, taking time to ensure that they are perfectly accurate. Attach the door by using just one screw per hinge until you have checked that the position of the door allows it to open and shut perfectly. Once the door is in the correct position then the remaining screws can be put in and tightened.
That’s it, all done! Now lock that door and put your feet up – you’ve earned a rest
We loved some of these ideas for wallpapering bedrooms. It is always a bit of a thrill for me to see what an incredible transformation new wall paper can bring about. Always much more fun if you have a handy wallpaperer too!
Bookshelves do need to be practical, but there’s no reason why they shouldn’t be fun too. And there’s no reason why they should only be used for books! We found this great article featuring some great ideas for bookshelves that are both practical and exciting.
Sometimes what seems perfectly clear to someone who works with doors all day, may be confusing to those of us who only open and close them.
Hopefully this information will help make doors and door frames a little easier to understand.
First of all, let’s understand the doorframe:
• Lintel – the horizontal beam above the door that supports the wall above it. Usually wood but can be concrete or stone, particularly in older properties.
• Jambs – the two vertical posts either side of the door, that together with the lintel form the door frame
• Sill – the horizontal beam below the door that supports the frame. Internal doors don’t usually have sills.
• Doorstop – this is the thin, often overlooked strip on one inside edge of the frame to prevent the door opening right thorough to the other side of the frame.• Architrave – a decorative moulding found on a door frame
Now for the door itself:
• Stiles – the vertical boards that make up the outside (left and right) edges of the door. The side with the hinges on is called the hanging stile, and the side with the lock and door handle is the latch stile.
• Rails – the horizontal boards at the top, bottom, and sometimes the middle of a door. Rails join the stiles, and can divide the door into panels.
• Mullions – small vertical boards that divide the door into a number of columns, and is more often used in reference to windows.
• Panels – large boards used to fill the space between the stiles, rails, and mullions. Panels can be smooth or have a variety of raised designs.
• Lights – as the name suggests, these are glass panes used in place of some panels to allow light to enter a room
Lastly, there is door furniture which is a hardware term that refers to the whole range of items that can be attached to a door; items such as locks, hinges and door handles.
Types Of Door
Doors come in a variety of different shapes and sizes depending on their purpose
A few of the different types are:
• Single leaf door – the most common type of door; a single panel that fits in a doorway.
• Stable Doors – also known as Dutch doors or half doors, these were originally
designed to allow animals to feed without allowing them to leave their stable. They have been adapted for our homes, and were very popular at one point.
• Saloon doors – straight out of cowboys films, these doors swing in either direction, and are usually only between knee and chest height to create some privacy
• Blind Doors – Not very common, these doors are designed to blend into the wall, totally disguising the door.
• French Doors – sometimes called a French window, this is traditionally a door size casement window with multiple panes. More recently though French doors usually means a set of double glass-paned doors opening onto the garden.
• Louvered door – a door with angled slats that may be moveable. They are usually found in wardrobe doors as they provide good ventilation.
• Composite door – a single leaf door usually filled with high density foam.
• Flush Door – single leaf door made from plywood or MDF, usually used for interior doors. Flush doors have a smooth finish.
• Moulded Door – very similar to a flush door, with a moulded MDF finish. Also used mostly as internal doors.
• Ledge and Brace door – a row of vertical planks held together by 2 horizontal planks – the ledges – at the top and bottom, and a diagonal plank – the brace. An old-fashioned back door or kitchen door is a good example.
• Bifold Doors – Until recently most commonly used for wardrobes and cupboards where space is a problem. More recently they have become popular as patio doors and as dividers between rooms.
• Sliding Doors – A door which slides along a track, also more commonly found as a glass door leading to a garden or patio.